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Dinner at Beaucoup following the opening of Adam Mc Ewen’s “Ice Ice Baby” at Galerie Art: Concept was more of a family affair.

His new paintings of man-made disasters on kitchen sponge—with fetching graphite attachments, like a toilet plunger and a hula-hoop—brought all three of his sisters.

“No other venue would have permitted a show like this.” I’m guessing that no other venue could afford it, either.“In France, we don’t respect money,” said LVF director Suzanne Pag, a refrain I would hear repeated over succeeding days by several other natives. Initially, the introductory gallery felt very coals-to-Newcastle, especially considering the origins of some of the works, and particularly Duchamp’s Bicycle Wheel, which anyone in Paris can see at the Pompidou any day of the week.

I spent a couple of satisfying afternoons in the Marais visiting galleries (and avoiding spirit-crushing news from the US) and diving into a wowser of a retrospective for the House of Dior at the Louvre’s Decorative Arts Museum, an overcrowded and overheated experience that was nevertheless enthralling, especially whenever the designs of John Galliano came into view. The Prix Meurice, for example, is given annually to an emerging artist.

Now in its tenth year, the jury (including Palais de Tokyo director Jean de Loisy, fashion designer Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, and Montpellier Museum of Contemporary Art director Nicolas Bourriaud) went to Morgan Courtois, who exhibited easily the most distinctive work, a sculpture that looked something like a diseased stalk of corn.

“It has a fragrance,” the artist told me, encouraging me to take a whiff.

During the week, there were dinners in private homes that saw Americans banding together at separate left-bank parties given by artist Alexander May and Young Kim, where Mo MA curator Stuart Comer was the guest of honor.

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